Košice

You’ll find plenty of smart and affordable hotels and home rentals in the city, as well as more upmarket options if you’re looking for somewhere special. Boutique hotel Chrysso has a great reputation, with its enchanting period architecture and location right in the heart of the city. Hotel Zlaty Dukat is known for its antique style, with high ceilings, wooden beams and plush furnishings, and a chic restaurant and wine cellar in the hotel’s 13th-century basement.

Set in luscious, leafy grounds, Hotel Bankov is elegant and sophisticated, with an excellent restaurant and a relaxing wellness centre – it’s 4km uphill of Kosice, but the hotel provides a complementary daily shuttle bus to and from the town.

The central square is the pride of Košice, and has its highest concentration of historic monuments. Towering over the square is the spectacular 14th-century Cathedral of St Elizabeth – the largest cathedral in the country, and one of the Košice’s must-see attractions. Climb the 160 stone steps to Sigisimund Tower for magnificent views across the city.

You’ll find lots of popular galleries and museums in Košice, including the East Slovak Gallery, with rotating exhibitions of contemporary art, and the fascinating Rodošto & Mikluš Prison. In less grisly territory, the city’s Singing Fountain is a spectacular water feature that dances to the chime of a 22-bell sculpture, illuminated with multicoloured lights after sundown during the summer months.

Slovakia is influenced by culinary cultures in every direction, with Austria and Hungary making the biggest impact, and Slovak dishes share their affinity for rich, hearty and comforting food. Traditional eateries serve up the national dish, Bryndzové halušky (dumplings served with cheese and bacon), and desserts like apple strudel and palacinky (crepes filled with chocolate, fruit and cream).

The café culture is thriving in Košice, along with ale houses and vinaren (wine bars) – the elongated main square, Hlavná, has lots of lively vinaren, which usually have later closing times, so they can double as nightclubs. While out, try slivka, a plum brandy, and tatratea, a liqueur made from tea, herbs and fruit extracts – but spirits are typically stronger and served in larger measures than in western Europe, so be warned!

After the city was voted as European Capital of Culture, it has also become a hotspot for street art, attracting mural painters from Europe and Latin America, and you’ll find intriguing colourful murals, sculptures and installations all over the city.

In the middle of Hlavna Street, close to the cathedral, sits the magnificent State Theater, which runs regular drama, ballet and opera performances – but even if you’re not going to see a show, it’s worth visiting this place for its impressive architecture and opulent interiors.